TEA-20 fuel line route

If you are restoring or looking to restore an old Fergie and need advice, this is the place to ask..

Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby Moose » Sat Nov 09, 2019 1:48 pm

[quote="kayno"] I won't be welding, and given my limited range of tools/equipment, I will be attempting the solder job with a hobby electronics soldering iron. I'm not sure it will heat it up enough - wish me luck!/quote]

My first tractor had a loose gas filler cap assembly that I successfully soldered using electric soldering irons. Most "hobby" ones will not do the job. I had two very old ones from work . The cords had cotton coverings on them. ;) One was 100 watts and the other 200 watts. The larger had about 1 pound of copper on the tip. It took about one hour to get it hot enough to flow the solder. Worked well though, to this day.
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby Hiawatha » Sat Nov 09, 2019 10:03 pm

The rattler is one of those nasty filters I mentioned , fortunately it hasn't fragmented , which indicates that there hasn't been a huge amount of water in the tank in the past .
The oil line follows a fairly straightforward route along the bell housing and up towards the oil pressure gauge , the difficulty comes as it passes behind the battery cage and makes a sharp right angled bend towards the back of the gauge itself . I have a photo somewhere but have to find it amongst the hundreds of others .
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby kayno » Sun Nov 10, 2019 10:42 am

Hiawatha wrote:The rattler is one of those nasty filters I mentioned , fortunately it hasn't fragmented , which indicates that there hasn't been a huge amount of water in the tank in the past .


It must have just been sitting in a spot where there wasn't water - check out this pic I took from another part of the tank:

Image

Hiawatha wrote:The oil line follows a fairly straightforward route along the bell housing and up towards the oil pressure gauge , the difficulty comes as it passes behind the battery cage and makes a sharp right angled bend towards the back of the gauge itself . I have a photo somewhere but have to find it amongst the hundreds of others .


I think whilst I was looking for something else, I found a photo that shows the oil pressure gauge pipe route: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_qV23LljiBRs/T ... et+002.jpg. Assuming that's what I can see top right, coming up beside the steering column?

Also, what is the other oil line in that photo, going from a similar spot to the oil pressure gauge banjo and up to the head? Direct feed of oil into the head!? My tractor does not have this...
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby Moose » Sun Nov 10, 2019 2:14 pm

That oil feed is not standard. Someone e got creative I think.
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby kayno » Sun Nov 10, 2019 11:37 pm

Moose wrote:That oil feed is not standard. Someone e got creative I think.


I wonder if it's trying to compensate for a blockage or something in the normal oil path to the top.

Back to the thread mystery though! I dropped off my fuel line template (thanks again all, for your pics that helped me with this) at the shop to get a new steel one fabricated, and asked them about the thread on the inlet side of the tap and bowl.

After trying many fittings from their wall of fittings on the 3/8 inlet on the tap and bowl assembly (which none of them fitted), the bloke got out the calipers and thread gauges. Calipers on the diameter say it's BSP, but thread gauge doesn't match BSP - he said it's closer to NPT. He couldn't find a match, and sent me home with a 3/8 BSP plug to try in the tank, to confirm it's BSP.

I'm questioning this aftermarket tap and bowl assembly now.
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby kayno » Mon Nov 11, 2019 9:57 am

kayno wrote:He couldn't find a match, and sent me home with a 3/8 BSP plug to try in the tank, to confirm it's BSP.

I'm questioning this aftermarket tap and bowl assembly now.


I'm now questioning the universe and everything related! The 3/8 BSP plug fitting did not fit in my tank - well it went in perhaps as far as I'd forced the tap and bowl assembly in, then it stops. So, assuming it is a 3/8 BSP fitting that I was given to try, then there is something up with the thread in my tank. Does not explain why the bloke in the shop today couldn't match the thread on the tap/bowl assembly though.

I've also had someone with a TEA tank and access to a 3/8 BSPT (tapered) cutting tap confirm that the cutting tap fits neatly in their TEA tank - so 100% certain now that the TEA tank outlet is 3/8 BSP. At least I have one constant to work forward with!

I'll get a thread chaser/cutting tap and re-do the thread in my tank. Hopefully it's just damaged/corroded/etc and this will fix it. Buying the aftermarket fuel tank is the alternative, I fear.
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby Grunt » Mon Nov 11, 2019 1:33 pm

I managed to have a look at my TEA tank and tap this morning.

The thread in the tank is 5/8” X 18 TPI, the thread on the tap is also 18 TPI but is tapered like yours. I reckon they made the tap thread tapered so it could be tightened to a point where it was positioned correctly. 5/8”X18 TPI is 5/8 UNF.

The tap outlet is threaded as near as sod it 7/16” X 24 TPI, I checked this with a fitting I had in my box of oddball fittings. This thread doesn’t relate to anything in particular with the possible exception of UNS, which isn’t a particularly common thread, without being able to check the thread angle I’ve no way of knowing for certain. There were a few UK manufacturers of parts and fittings that made their own thread forms up, Wade and Enots spring to mind, their threaded unions don’t fit anyone else’s. So it’s possible that AC, the manufacturers of my fuel tap, could have used their own thread or used Wade or Enots unions. Because I found a manufactured union in my box of bits I reckon it will have been a fairly common thread in its day.
Last edited by Grunt on Mon Nov 11, 2019 1:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby kayno » Mon Nov 11, 2019 1:44 pm

Grunt wrote:5/8”X18 TPI is 5/8 UNF.


Thanks for following up, Grunt. I suppose plenty of other things changed on the tractor as time went by - and the tank outlet size must have been one of those things! Mine is a 1952 TEA20-85.

I have scraped out some corrosion/something in the thread on my tank tonight (carefully, using a wire brush and a fine, flat screwdriver) and the 3/8 BSPT plug fitting went in a little further. I'm hoping the shop that's fabricating my new fuel line will have a 3/8 cutting tap when I ask them, and that they will be willing to run it down the outlet in my tank. We'll have to see.

I've certainly learned a lot about the different threads you can get this past week!
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby Hiawatha » Tue Nov 12, 2019 3:13 am

The route of the standard oil line shown in your photo is correct , as to the other line I really can't fathom what they are trying to do other than provide more oil to the valve gear . I have asked a few seasoned Fergie men and they are just as flummoxed as I am .
If you haven't already make sure to clean out the oil gauge line very thoroughly , compressed air alone just isn't enough . I did this ;

oil pressure line cleaner.JPG
oil pressure line cleaner.JPG (44.05 KiB) Viewed 69 times


A bicycle brake cable frayed at one end and pushed through the entire length , rotate it with a battery drill and withdraw slowly whilst keeping the rpm at around 100 . This will scour the insides and allow a wash in solvent and a blast of air to clean it completely .
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Re: TEA-20 fuel line route

Postby kayno » Tue Nov 12, 2019 4:20 am

Hiawatha wrote:The route of the standard oil line shown in your photo is correct
If you haven't already make sure to clean out the oil gauge line very thoroughly , compressed air alone just isn't enough


Thanks for confirming Hiawatha. Half of my line is missing (it's been cut and crimped at the bell housing - clearly a repair had to be done in such a hurry there was no time to disconnect it! I have the engine-end half, and the other half up to the gauge is AWOL (plus the gauge was smashed in).

So, I've got a brand new line on the way in the local mail (ready made with banjo and fittings), and I reckon a quick squirt of air should be enough to blow out any fluff that might be there. I've also ordered some cheap gauges (oil, ammeter, temp) that look the same as the original from India. Much cheaper than what the parts shops here sell them for, so worth the risk to see what they are like. Figured that I'm not after a perfectly accurate reading of the PSI - I just need to know that there is pressure, and if it's higher or lower than it was the last time I looked at it.

Am I right in thinking I will need to bleed out the air in the oil pressure line? Attach the banjo bolt end to the block, and crank it over with the starter a few times until oil comes out at the gauge end, before screwing it onto the gauge?

Thanks again for all the help :)
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